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The "heart" of Capri is the Piazza Umberto I a small, compact,
closed-off square that resembles a courtyard. Surrounding the
square are the ''Torre dell'Orologio'', or Clock Tower, which
may have been the belltower of the old cathedral, plus the municipal
offices (located in the rooms of the former bishop's residence),
and a series of stores and caffes; the picturesque left side of
the San Stefano church acts as a backdrop. The piazza was probably
part of the primitive inhabited are a of Capri (Vth-IVth cents.
BC), as shown by a number of sections of wall made from limestone
blocks some squared and others formed in the more ancient, pseudo-polygonal-technique.
The blocks ale visible at the ends of the funicular terrace, having
been integrated in the construction of the houses and the medieval
walls on the northeast side of the town Together With another
section of wall on the slopes of the Castiglione hill, and hill
others that were destroyed in the Roman age, these blocks formed
the mighty fortified perimeter of the Greek acropolis.
Gathered around the piazza is the medieval quarter. Of significant
interest for its history and layout, it contains an intricate
network of small, winding streets.
The square of the Funicolar: pre-romana walls
This is one of the few remains of the most ancient fortifications
in the town of Capri; two phases of construction are evident the
oldest consists of a pseudo-polygonal structure, while the more
recent made use of square bocks.
Dated by various scholars to 1000 BC, or (by Maiuri) to the Vth
and VIth centuries BC respectively, little is actually known about
these fortifications, nor have digs or systematic analyses been
performed.
In the past, they were made a part of the line of houses on the
Via Longano; today they have been almost completely erased by
the continuous renovation of the area's housing. They are connected
to the belltower and to the town's ancient gate, which is adorned
with arches, ogival cross-vaults and fragments from digs while
up above stands the plaque dedicated to the American Thomas Spencer
Jeremy, a scholar who carried out extensive studies on Tibelrius.
J. FERSEN, 1910
The square! At three the sun beat down in full force, splashing
light over the stone stairway, whose steps, covered with the vases
of flowers offered by a travelling peddler, lead to the magniloquent
and recently restored cathedral.
To the right, acting as an extension of the street, a terrace
ringed by white columns and carrying a sign that points to the
entrance of the funicular, dominates the sea.
An old belltower, which wears its clock of blue Faience tile like
a monocle, holds a Bourbon crest, as well as the blind windows
of unlikely eating establishments. It stood guard at the corner
of the terrace, and though massive in size, seemed to stutter
while sounding the hour.
The town hall, three caffes, two barbershops, a pharmacist and
a vegetable shop with a lady owner and a blackish sign from which
red peppers hung all filled the four corners of the square with
their white, yellow and pink facades covered with posters.
And all this, amidst the bustle and confusion of beggars, fishermen
and chattering housewives, smelled of musk, frying olive oil and
garlic.
At that moment the excitement was at its peak, because the steamship
had just left for Naples. One found oneself in the first act of
Carmen.
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